Metal / Wood Desk Part 3

Now to continue with the really involved build that is the Metal Wood Desk that my brother and I started some time ago. Due to conflicting schedules we were able to get together to make a little more progress on the desk. We are edging so close to the finish line, and we can see it

We start off this 3rd part by making the levelers for the feet and the desk top itself. By flushing the up the all thread with the nut base, you can then weld them both making them one piece. Clamping the ground clamp down to your table will give you much more control, plus a free hand to weld.


The wood insets must have a way to register in the right place and by welding these 1/2” straps backset 1”, it will do just that. We will accommodate the welds later.


Taking the connecting straps that we fabricated, we attach them to the desk wings using 4 self tapping screws. We then mount the wing to the main desk with the other end of the bracket using the same amount of screws. To add extra support to the wing backer we attach a piece of angle iron with 4 symmetrical holes, which will also allow us to attach the spare legs later.


Now to remove the flooring from the substrate to prep for planing. Placing a thin pry bar beside each nail seemed to work best of the removal of the wood. This kept the splintering to a minimum.


Taking an angle grinder to the nails at the mating surface of the wood, I just ground the nail off and once removed, I grind down the nail below the wood surface to prevent damage to my planer bed.


In order save time later, I took nippers to remove the nail at the base and then hammered the nail below the wood surface. This seemed to work very well, not to mention it was so much faster.


After many years of treatments, this floor has accumulated a lot of film that is very dangerous when chipped. I use a wide putty knife and remove the layers as best I can to prevent damage to my planer knifes.


Once removed, it can go through the planer removing enough material to shrink it down to 7/8” from its original 1”.


We must have a substrate to mount the maple flooring to, and 1/2” plywood was the best choice. Using a straight edge and a circular saw, it makes quick work of it. A table saw would also work best provided that ll the openings are square.


Lastly, the inside welds on the inside of the strapping must be accommodated. easiest way to do this is to run a deep chamfer on the edges that apply. This will allow the wood to sit flush without having to grind the welds made by the arc welder.


Chad and I would like to thank you for stopping by and don’t forget to check out his channel for more great videos on gun smithing and other DIY projects.


Please be safe and we will see you next time around and as always… BOOM!!!