Well it’s time for a new project in this one is on most people’s lists. However, for those of us that do not have a mudroom you must figure out a different way to work in this particular project. In my case, my garage has a pretty good place for it. The wall space is limited but it’s in a perfect location.


  • 3/4” plywood
  • 1 1/4” and 1 5/8” star drive screws or Phillips if you prefer
  • 3/4” hardwood for skirting
  • JIgs from Rockler (optional)
  • Eurostyle hinges, drawer slides and drawer pulls

Once my plans are available on my website, and the project is completed, you’ll be able to take the given measurements to cut all of the pieces at once. This makes it a lot easier and faster to complete this project.

I first began by cutting my sides, top and bottoms and my middle uprights for the lower cabinet. They are all out of 3/4” plywood. I also cut out of 1/2” plywood the back.


Then, I chose to use pine for my skirting which will wrap around the top of the bench as well as the bottom to cover up any gaps. You can also choose to use a hardwood.


Next, it is onto making the dadoes. I began by laying my dado stack on top of my table saw so it was completely flat between two pieces of 1/2” plywood. (The reason I do this is because there is a ring that is proud of the blade so I have to be in set it between two boards) then the stock I will be using I placed side-by-side next to the dado stack. I adjust the stack by turning my dial-a-width hub, or shims if applicable, to fine-tune the thickness. Once your stack is even with the stock then you can proceed with a test cut. Make any adjustments necessary to fine-tune your width.


Once you have that completed begin by cutting your dadoes and grace. In the side do you want to cut a dado for the bottom, a groove for the back (remember it is 1/2” inch plywood), and a 1/4” groove for the offset tongue for the top.


I then take the top and bottom pieces with the fence set at the same place for all cuts. I run a dado on one side and then flip it end for end and do it again on the other end. This makes the dadoes for the center uprights to create three cavities for the drawers. Having all of the surface area that my tablesaw cabinet offers is extremely helpful.


To make it easier on myself I pre-drill holes through the backsides of the dadoes. Then I flip the piece over and countersink every hole that was drilled. Using glue I assemble the pieces. I also use screws after pre-drilling the already pre-drilled holes to make sure the screws do not split my stock.


With the top, bottom and middle uprights assembled you can then slide in the back. Then put your two sides in place.


I also cut some strips that raise the thickness of the bench to resemble an inch and a half thick top. They are screwed in place across the top of the bench before the actual bench top is placed on it. Be sure and leave yourself plenty of overhang to cover the drawer fronts when they are in place. I went with a 2” overhang.


Once all the hardware is attached and located properly in the cabinets as well as the doors, then installation is a snap, literally.


Then I basically repeated the process for the dadoes, grooves and offset tongues. The grooves for the offset tongues were on either end of the sides and the dadoes were made to establish the locker system and the drawer at the bottom. What’s left is the space for the adjustable shelving.


Then I used my jig from Rockler to make the adjustable shelving 1/4” pinholes.


Now to prevent problems after assembly to get my drawer slides installed, I went ahead and pre-installed them. This will make your life so much easier.


After pre-drilling all of your holes as well as countersinking, begin assembling your peace with glue and screws.


When you were done, you are ready to carry on your project into part two of making the drawers.



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