Since its conception, my Kreg Jig cabinet has been the talk of the woodworking community. Especially, for most DIY’ers that want to improve their current pocket hole system and how they store all the accessories for it.

Since its conception, my Kreg Jig cabinet has been the talk of the woodworking community. Especially, for most DIY’ers that want to improve their current pocket hole system and how they store all the accessories for it. I had a visit from Jake Thompson – Northside Custom Crafts, and he brought with him some gifts for my family so I could not let him leave without taking a Kreg Jig cabinet of his very own, only this time, we made it for a K4. So lets get moving. Plans are available here for my original cabinet.

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We first begin, by using my plans (with slight modifications for a K4) to cut all the pieces to dimension for the base and tops out of 1/2” plywood. Since this is a K4 we needed to make it slightly wider than the original.

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We then cut all the riser blocks from 3/4” inch thick plywood, leaving one just slightly wider than the rest so we can make the mounting plate for the jig to screw to.

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We needed to find the height of the cabinet carcass sides that will flank either side of the riser blocks to create the storage. So we took one of the tops and placed it on the base to one side, along with the riser blocks. Then placed a gauge piece in the jig to determine the width of my cut.

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I then took one of the riser blocks and found center. I also found center of the base and then lined up those two measurements using scribed marks. Make sure the front and back edges are flush and square before glueing down this piece. Once that is down you can glue two more blocks down on top of this one.

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Now the remainder piece, you know the one that is slightly wider than the other riser blocks, you need to cut opposing miters that has a slight reveal so they can be glued to the riser blocks on either side. This will create the dovetail path for the mounting bracket.

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Cut the bracket with opposing miters as well. This will take several passes to get it just perfect.

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To mount the jig to the bracket, it must be centered and flush to the front edge. Find these measurements and line them up before screwing it down.

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Now just using some DAP rapid fuse glue, you can assemble the cabinet carcasses making sure they are all square and flush with the back edges of the base. The interior sides of the left and right cabinets can be right up against the riser blocks.

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Making the drawers is the same procedure, except we need to cut dados in all the sides to accommodate the 1/4” drawer bottom. Not to mention the slots for the plexiglass dividers. These are cut in the front and back pieces of the drawer boxes.

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Now attach the drawer pull hardware to the drawer fronts that you must cut, making sure they are overlapping the drawer boxes to hide them sufficiently.

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To keep the jig from passing all the way through the dovetail path, a stop block must be installed. By cutting a 1/4” square piece long enough to span the width of the dovetail path, you can glue it in place on the back edge. Then take the mounting bracket with the jig attached and cut a 1/4” square long notch out of the back end of it. Now the jig will register in the correct spot each and every time.

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After a little sanding and branding, the cabinet is done. Now all that is left is to stock it up.

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Enjoy and thank you for taking the time to read and build your own Rock-n H Woodshop Original Kreg Jig Cabinet with Storage Drawers. Plans are available here for my original cabinet.

K4 Boom Pic


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